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TOPIC: Volvo C1 Dp refinishing

Volvo C1 Dp refinishing 01 Jan 2008 08:00 #1

  • billbayliner
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Has some bad pitting on the drive and working on her over the winter. One side is done and now working on the other and thought I would show how I am refinishing my drive.

I am using JB Weld epoxy to skim. I then am sanding and then priming with Yellow Zinc Chromate primer. Then finishing in Volvo grey. Will add more photos as time allows.

Here is a pitted transmission. I am starting on the lower and working up

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I have sanded the pitting on the lower of the drive. I tried to remove as little of the original paint as possible. It has been wiped with Naptha gas to clean the surface. The skeg has been epoxied with some quick sea epoxy I have plenty of. Difficult to sand.

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I have skimmed it with an epoxy. I used JB Weld. Time will tell if I made a good choice

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Volvo C1 Dp refinishing 03 Jan 2008 16:45 #2

  • 2850Bounty
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Bill, I have a take on this that you may like to hear. No offense to the methods you are using, but just want to share this with you.

You are exactly correct in attempting to leave as much of the factory paint as possible. Can't beat what the factory did!

Aluminum Oxidizes very quickly when exposed, so using the proper Prep chemical on the now bare aluminum is imperative. I'd not use Gasoline to wipe or prep any surfaces, IMO, as this is a petroleum product. There are some good prep chemicals that can be purchased.

Anytime you can warm the aluminum before applying primer/paint will also help immensely. Aluminum has a tendency to absorb moisture at the surface. As you heat, the moisture should leave the surface allowing the paint a better "bite".

Also, the zinc chromate primers are to be use sparingly for best results. IOW, you don't want any heavy coating or "build up" of it.

If you can have some two part automotive paint custom mixed for you (get a recommendation from the supplier), and then use a cup gun to apply......... it will provide a great protective surface.

Drive anti-fouling paints are available also if you moor this boat. They don't look pretty, but are highly functional.

Are you planning to install new crosses, O rings and seals throughout on the DP C1?



These are just suggestions for you! :arr

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Rick E. Portland, Oregon
2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
Twin 270 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set

Volvo C1 Dp refinishing 04 Jan 2008 20:22 #3

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Hi Rick: I used Naptha gas not gasoline. It is used for prepping metals and surfaces before painting, etc. It leaves no residue and evaporates quickly.

Yes, I have new O-rings for the drive. Do not know what you mean by the crosses.

I remembered your suggestion on the primer from an earlier thread so when I primed the other side of the drive. :D

I have some spray cans of volvo grey I bought already that I am using. I did bring the drive into the basement to work on it in warm room temps.

The outdrive antifoul paint is a good product........... I think I might give it a try then.

Thanks Rick

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Volvo C1 Dp refinishing 04 Jan 2008 23:17 #4

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Universal bearing joint is actually a "Cross"...... or "Spider" ...... (what some call a U joint!)

Hey, good luck on it. Always nice to have a fresh looking drive!

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Rick E. Portland, Oregon
2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
Twin 270 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set

Volvo C1 Dp refinishing 04 Jan 2008 23:50 #5

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Ujoint and the shaft look brand new. Even has the volvo sticker still on it.

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Volvo C1 Dp refinishing 05 Jan 2008 07:50 #6

  • djanthony
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On Boatered is a very good topic about painting aluminium and especialy outdrives.
Here is the link: http://www.boatered.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=97217

Gr Anthony from the Netherlands

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Volvo C1 Dp refinishing 06 Jan 2008 04:03 #7

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Interesting read! I see a few conflicts between two parties there.
And I have a question. If the finish paint seals in the Z/C, where is the great risk in using it? I've had OK luck with Z/C but I'll take this man at his word on the Alodine after the AlumnaPrep. Sounds good to me!

Also, Aluminum does oxidize once the surface is disturbed, but how long does it take before the surface prep becomes lost or ineffective? I'd think that you'd have a short, but fair, amount of time to work with your finishing process.

The other thing not mentioned is the moisture that Aluminum will hold on the surface. Heat a piece of less than room temperature aluminum that is ready for paint and watch the moisture run from the surface. I suppose if you are in Arizona, it is not as critical....... But here in Oregon it is.

.

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Rick E. Portland, Oregon
2850 Bounty Sedan Flybridge model
Twin 270 HP 5.7's w/ Closed Cooling
Volvo Penta DuoProp Drives
Kohler 4 CZ Gen Set

Volvo C1 Dp refinishing 08 Apr 2008 12:43 #8

  • billbayliner
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Well she is finally done. Had last week off and took advantage of the beautiful weather / temperature to finish painting her up.

If you notice, I have the drive bellow portion of the drive taped and it was not painted. I kept it original so that there are no potential issues with with adhesion of the new paint and possibility of it leading to a bellow leak

I saved the Volvo sticker and will put back on with contact cement (Unless someone has a better adhesive idea) and this will give it a nice touch.

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