Welcome, Guest
Username: Password: Remember me
  • Page:
  • 1

TOPIC: Stern Mate transducer mount

Stern Mate transducer mount 05 Jul 2012 19:13 #1

  • JJBat150
  • JJBat150's Avatar Topic Author
  • Offline
  • New Member
  • New Member
  • Posts: 5
  • Thank you received: 0
First off, hello everyone, new member here... been lurking for a few months, finally registered and now posting.

Recently bought a new 175BR and looking at all the options for mounting a transducer. I'd really like to go with a transom style mount to keep the transducer in contact with the water, but I'm not really too comfortable with the idea of drilling holes in my new investment.

I've discovered this product. http://www.sternmate.com/index.html Wondering about people's thoughts / experiences with using it.

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

Stern Mate transducer mount 05 Jul 2012 19:56 #2

  • JeffBowser
  • JeffBowser's Avatar
  • Offline
  • Senior Member
  • Senior Member
  • Posts: 132
  • Thank you received: 0
I've not heard of that one, interesting concept. I mounted mine the traditional way, holes and all. My friend didn't want to, he used some 5200 and glued a piece of 1/2" starboard to his transom and screwed the transponder to that.

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

2012 180 OB w/90hp Mercury 4 stroke
MMSI - 338133839

Stern Mate transducer mount 05 Jul 2012 20:45 #3

  • JimMc
  • JimMc's Avatar
  • Offline
  • Platinum Member
  • Platinum Member
  • Posts: 4690
  • Thank you received: 259
I think the Sternmate itself is fine and a good idea.

BUT They did not address the issue of the cable running up the transom to the entry point and how to secure it. I asked them and they said use the plastic P straps and screws. That defeats the purpose of the Sternmate in my opinion.


This spring I needed to replace my transom transducer and decided I wanted to eliminate the holes and screws in the transom. I knew I wanted to mount the transducer with an intermidiate layer and did some research to find a solution. It was at this time I spoke to Sternmate and others.

My solution uses PVC Lumber and Flex Set Epoxy.


After removing all the old hardware I cleaned off a vertical stripe of bottom paint giving my self a few extra inches to left and right of where I expected to be working.

I filled all the old holes with epoxy. I applied the epoxy several times pushing it in until the holes were filled solid. I sanded smooth. I then finished over the original holes with Marine Tex. Once cured I sanded the Marine Tex smooth.

I resealed the interior surfaces of the above water cable opening through the hull with epoxy.

I sanded the fiberglass with 80 grit to give the surface some tooth.

I then used a piece of PVC lumber/trim 1"x6"x8' to make a new transducer mount. (Bought at Lowes) This is NOT the same as Starboard. Starboard does not adhere reliably using adhesives.

I cut and shaped the PVC lumber to suit my need. I cut a groove up the board to give me a path for my transducer cable. The transducer area is slightly oversize if a future need occurs. The boat side of the PVC was also sanded with 80 grit paper to clean it and give it tooth.

The PVC mount was positioned and line up marks made with a Sharpie so I knew where it was going to be glued.

Based on advice from the makers of Marine Tex technical support group I used the Marine Tex "Flex Set Epoxy" product to adhere the PVC lumber to the boats fiberglass. For the size of my mount it required I buy two packages and I needed one and a half to put enough adhesive on the board to cover the entire surface with a solid layer.

With help I positioned the PVC lumber in place and a friend stacked concrete blocks and used wedges to firmly hold the lumber in place. Once clearly in place and aligned with my marks I left it in place for a week to cure.

Once cured I mounted my transducer and secured the cable to the PVC lumber with screws knowing none of the screws penetrated my fiberglass.

I then filled the above the water line opening with 3M 4200 and reinstalled the clamshell cover.

I painted the PVC lumber with bottom paint.

The PVC mount seems rock solid and so far knock wood all is well.This spring I needed to replace my transom transducer and decided I wanted to eliminate the holes and screws in the transom. I knew I wanted to mount the transducer with an intermidiate layer and did some research to find a solution.


After removing all the old hardware I cleaned off a vertical stripe of bottom paint giving my self a few extra inches to left and right of where I expected to be working.

I filled all the old holes with epoxy. I applied the epoxy several times pushing it in until the holes were filled solid. I sanded smooth. I then finished over the original holes with Marine Tex. Once cured I sanded the Marine Tex smooth.

I resealed the interior surfaces of the above water cable opening through the hull with epoxy.

I sanded the fiberglass with 80 grit to give the surface some tooth.

I then used a piece of PVC lumber/trim 1"x6"x8' to make a new transducer mount. (Bought at Lowes) This is NOT the same as Starboard. Starboard does not adhere reliably using adhesives.

I cut and shaped the PVC lumber to suit my need. I cut a groove up the board to give me a path for my transducer cable. The transducer area is slightly oversize if a future need occurs. The boat side of the PVC was also sanded with 80 grit paper to clean it and give it tooth.

The PVC mount was positioned and line up marks made with a Sharpie so I knew where it was going to be glued.

Based on advice from the makers of Marine Tex technical support group I used the Marine Tex "Flex Set Epoxy" product to adhere the PVC lumber to the boats fiberglass. For the size of my mount it required I buy two packages and I needed one and a half to put enough adhesive on the board to cover the entire surface with a solid layer.

With help I positioned the PVC lumber in place and a friend stacked concrete blocks and used wedges to firmly hold the lumber in place. Once clearly in place and aligned with my marks I left it in place for a week to cure.

Once cured I mounted my transducer and secured the cable to the PVC lumber with screws knowing none of the screws penetrated my fiberglass.

I then filled the above the water line opening with 3M 4200 and reinstalled the clamshell cover.

I painted the PVC lumber with bottom paint.

The PVC mount seems rock solid and so far knock wood all is well.

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

Jim and Debbie McNeely
New Hope a 2004 Bayliner 305 Sunbridge Express Cruiser
Twin 5.7s with Bravo2 drives
Brighton, Michigan USA
MMSI # 367393410

Stern Mate transducer mount 05 Jul 2012 20:47 #4

  • JimMc
  • JimMc's Avatar
  • Offline
  • Platinum Member
  • Platinum Member
  • Posts: 4690
  • Thank you received: 259
I think the Sternmate itself is fine and a good idea.

BUT They did not address the issue of the cable running up the transom to the entry point and how to secure it. I asked them and they said use the plastic P straps and screws. That defeats the purpose of the Sternmate in my opinion.


This spring I needed to replace my transom transducer and decided I wanted to eliminate the holes and screws in the transom. I knew I wanted to mount the transducer with an intermidiate layer and did some research to find a solution. It was at this time I spoke to Sternmate and others.

My solution uses PVC Lumber and Flex Set Epoxy.


After removing all the old hardware I cleaned off a vertical stripe of bottom paint giving my self a few extra inches to left and right of where I expected to be working.

I filled all the old holes with epoxy. I applied the epoxy several times pushing it in until the holes were filled solid. I sanded smooth. I then finished over the original holes with Marine Tex. Once cured I sanded the Marine Tex smooth.

I resealed the interior surfaces of the above water cable opening through the hull with epoxy.

I sanded the fiberglass with 80 grit to give the surface some tooth.

I then used a piece of PVC lumber/trim 1"x6"x8' to make a new transducer mount. (Bought at Lowes) This is NOT the same as Starboard. Starboard does not adhere reliably using adhesives.

I cut and shaped the PVC lumber to suit my need. I cut a groove up the board to give me a path for my transducer cable. The transducer area is slightly oversize if a future need occurs. The boat side of the PVC was also sanded with 80 grit paper to clean it and give it tooth.

The PVC mount was positioned and line up marks made with a Sharpie so I knew where it was going to be glued.

Based on advice from the makers of Marine Tex technical support group I used the Marine Tex "Flex Set Epoxy" product to adhere the PVC lumber to the boats fiberglass. For the size of my mount it required I buy two packages and I needed one and a half to put enough adhesive on the board to cover the entire surface with a solid layer.

With help I positioned the PVC lumber in place and a friend stacked concrete blocks and used wedges to firmly hold the lumber in place. Once clearly in place and aligned with my marks I left it in place for a week to cure.

Once cured I mounted my transducer and secured the cable to the PVC lumber with screws knowing none of the screws penetrated my fiberglass.

I then filled the above the water line opening with 3M 4200 and reinstalled the clamshell cover.

I painted the PVC lumber with bottom paint.

The PVC mount seems rock solid and so far knock wood all is well.

This image is hidden for guests.
Please log in or register to see it.

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

Jim and Debbie McNeely
New Hope a 2004 Bayliner 305 Sunbridge Express Cruiser
Twin 5.7s with Bravo2 drives
Brighton, Michigan USA
MMSI # 367393410
  • Page:
  • 1
Moderators: Download_Completehiggins_jr
Time to create page: 0.120 seconds
Powered by Kunena Forum