Calling Rick E!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[tonyiiiafl]

Hey Rick!

I was crawling around in the bilge today getting ready to winterize. I have a couple of questions for you:


1.) Where can I find a GENUINE VP manual? I have teh shop manuals but they do not cover squat about winterization.

2.) I saw thw 2 drain plugs on teh sides of the block (SBC) are these the ones to remove and make sure are clean to drain the block?

3.) After draining and pulling the raw water hoses from the water pump and draining, do I remove the t stat housing and fill the manifold/block from there?

4.) My rotor screws are rusted so that they will not accept a screw driver. Drilling them out is teh answer?

5.) LAST question, I have a Mallory Flamethrower model D2008. I think my advance springs are shot, as the counter weights do not move freely, almost like there is only one spring working. Any idea where I can get replacements?

THANKS for your help, as ALWAYS!!!!!!!

[2850Bounty]

That model number does not come up. Can you verify?

[tonyiiiafl]

Originally Posted by 2850Bounty

That model number does not come up. Can you verify?

I am going to again check it in the morning. It is bright billet aluminum with the red cap and clamp type hold downs. I saw that number on the side of the distributor. I will check again tomorrow. I checked EBAY and saw this one that is identical to mine:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/D2008...Q5fCarQ5fParts

[Bellingham_2850]

Pertronix is a totally separate company from Mallory. I was considering buying this one myself a couple of weeks ago.

Pertronix is still in business, and they should be able to help you with parts.
Try www.pertronix.com

I looked at their distributor spring kit, and I didn't see a way to get it to match the stock distributor in my VP AQ260A. I shot them a question on their web site, but they haven't answered yet. In any case, after I took my distributor apart and cleaned it, I adjusted the springs so there was no slack and then re-tested the advance curve. Once it was right - waa la!

My album has the pics.

Good luck!

[Gilligan]

Originally Posted by tonyiiiafl

Hey Rick!

I was crawling around in the bilge today getting ready to winterize. I have a couple of questions for you:


1.) Where can I find a GENUINE VP manual? I have teh shop manuals but they do not cover squat about winterization.

2.) I saw thw 2 drain plugs on teh sides of the block (SBC) are these the ones to remove and make sure are clean to drain the block?

3.) After draining and pulling the raw water hoses from the water pump and draining, do I remove the t stat housing and fill the manifold/block from there?

4.) My rotor screws are rusted so that they will not accept a screw driver. Drilling them out is teh answer?

5.) LAST question, I have a Mallory Flamethrower model D2008. I think my advance springs are shot, as the counter weights do not move freely, almost like there is only one spring working. Any idea where I can get replacements?

THANKS for your help, as ALWAYS!!!!!!!

1. Here is a link to one of the largest suppliers on the Eastern Seaboard. http://www.aimpowercenter.com/ They are on Long Island and have everything Volvo and are patient on the phone. You will not find much in the way of winterizing in the OEM's tough... they just stink in that way.

2. I could have sworn you had the closed cooling system. My block drains are as you describe, but I don't drain down for the winter. Just check my protection level with a tester.

3. IF YOU'VE GOT CLOSED COOLING you only need to fill the manifolds and then drain again. Mine fill via the hose that comes from the H/E to them.

[pkrogh]

The shop manuals won't have anything on winterizing. You'll need the operators manual for that.

You can buy one from these guys:

http://www.marineengine.com/manuals/...drive_gas.html

Or download one from Volvo Penta:

http://www.volvo.com/volvopenta/na/e...ion_search.htm

Pete

[2850Bounty]

Originally Posted by tonyiiiafl

1.) Where can I find a GENUINE VP manual? I have teh shop manuals but they do not cover squat about winterization.

2.) I saw thw 2 drain plugs on teh sides of the block (SBC) are these the ones to remove and make sure are clean to drain the block?

3.) After draining and pulling the raw water hoses from the water pump and draining, do I remove the t stat housing and fill the manifold/block from there?

4.) My rotor screws are rusted so that they will not accept a screw driver. Drilling them out is teh answer?

5.) LAST question, I have a Mallory Flamethrower model D2008. I think my advance springs are shot, as the counter weights do not move freely, almost like there is only one spring working. Any idea where I can get replacements?

1.) Yeah, some of the VP OEM manuals are not very thorough on this. However, these are very easy to take care of.
Take Pete's suggestion on that one!

2.) Yes, if Raw Water cooled.

3.) You may, but best if you drain again, likewise with the exhaust, IMO.

4.) Not sure. I'd need to see it. From the image below, these look to be the spring loaded hold downs. (push down/turn/release... not sure) Maybe try grabbing them from underneath.

5.) OK, ya threw me for a loop on this one, Tony! The number not only didn't come up, I was looking for Mallory.
I can't help you other than to mention that if you do install the new springs and free up the cam weights, you had better mark off the balancer, then run an advancing test on the engine and create a RPM/Advance graph to see if it is working correctly. This is a very sensitive adjustment to make (I say adjustment because the new springs will have a very slightly different value to them).
You also need to find out why the distributor was getting wet on the inside.

D200800 Pertronix Chev marine Flamethrower distributor

[tonyiiiafl]

Originally Posted by 2850Bounty

1.) Yeah, some of the VP OEM manuals are not very thorough on this. However, these are very easy to take care of.
Take Pete's suggestion on that one!

2.) Yes, if Raw Water cooled.

3.) You may, but best if you drain again, likewise with the exhaust, IMO.

4.) Not sure. I'd need to see it. From the image below, these look to be the spring loaded hold downs. (push down/turn/release... not sure) Maybe try grabbing them from underneath.

5.) OK, ya threw me for a loop on this one, Tony! The number not only didn't come up, I was looking for Mallory.
I can't help you other than to mention that if you do install the new springs and free up the cam weights, you had better mark off the balancer, then run an advancing test on the engine and create a RPM/Advance graph to see if it is working correctly. This is a very sensitive adjustment to make (I say adjustment because the new springs will have a very slightly different value to them).
You also need to find out why the distributor was getting wet on the inside.

D200800 Pertronix Chev marine Flamethrower distributor

THANKS RICK! yes, that is teh distributor. There is no gasket from the cap to the base of this one, so I am sure moisture gets in.

Now as for draining the block, you woudl suggest that after filling it with anti freeze that I drain it again and leave empty or refill a second time?

[tonyiiiafl]

Originally Posted by pkrogh

the shop manuals won't have anything on winterizing. You'll need the operators manual for that.

You can buy one from these guys:

http://www.marineengine.com/manuals/...drive_gas.html

or download one from volvo penta:

http://www.volvo.com/volvopenta/na/e...ion_search.htm

pete

thanks pete!!!!!!!

[tonyiiiafl]

Originally Posted by Gilligan

1. Here is a link to one of the largest suppliers on the Eastern Seaboard. http://www.aimpowercenter.com/ They are on Long Island and have everything Volvo and are patient on the phone. You will not find much in the way of winterizing in the OEM's tough... they just stink in that way.

2. I could have sworn you had the closed cooling system. My block drains are as you describe, but I don't drain down for the winter. Just check my protection level with a tester.

3. IF YOU'VE GOT CLOSED COOLING you only need to fill the manifolds and then drain again. Mine fill via the hose that comes from the H/E to them.

Thanks Mike,

Yes, I was going to get the closed cooling system, but ran short of funds when I bought the new engine. I wished I had gone for it thought.

I am going to call that place this morning and see if they can help me.

THANKS AGAIN!