Can't remove the bellhousing, HELP

[Phillabaum]

Volvo, penta AQ125A Wanted to remove the engine by unbolting from the bellhousing. That didn't work. So I took off the top end of the sterndrive. I liked that much better. Now that the engine is out. I can't get the bellhousing off. it will move away from the engine about 1/8" but thats it. I have tryed everything I can to the point almost breaking it. I think something is sticking on the flywheel or the shaft is stuck. Per the books all bolts are removed. Is there something I am missing. I don't want to redo the boat until I go through the engine. The stern drive was full of clean lube that was good. Please somebody help me.

[Wingman]

If you removed all the bolts and the lower shield the only thing left are the two dowell pins. Try soaking them with a mix of acetone and ATF.

[2850Bounty]

Originally Posted by Phillabaum

Volvo, penta AQ125A Wanted to remove the engine by unbolting from the bellhousing. That didn't work. So I took off the top end of the sterndrive. I liked that much better. Now that the engine is out. I can't get the bellhousing off. it will move away from the engine about 1/8" but thats it. I have tryed everything I can to the point almost breaking it. I think something is sticking on the flywheel or the shaft is stuck. Per the books all bolts are removed. Is there something I am missing? I don't want to redo the boat until I go through the engine. The stern drive was full of clean lube that was good. Please somebody help me.

No, there is nothing that you are missing except that you have a "Primary Drive shaft" that is rusted/corroded and is stuck in either the crankshaft pilot bearing and/or the Borg Warner style "drive coupler"..... possibly both!
The flywheel cover will not come off of the engine until this is addressed.

Several ways to attack this;

• Shock the shaft with a brass hammer and see if you can free it up. (you'll be replacing this PDS bearing anyway)
  
• Drill a nice round hole in the flywheel cover at/near where the three mounting bolts secure the drive coupler to the flywheel. Use this for access to remove the three bolts. (you will need to rotate the engine some)

This, unfortunately, is not uncommon.

After installing the new open bearing, be sure to pre-fill this cavity with grease as you rotate the PDS just prior to installing the new seals. You want no air pockets in this area.
When you see grease coming through the bearing..... now install the seals.
The bearing is a generic bearing and can be purchased via a good bearing supplier. Not Chineese...... SKF or equivalent electric motor grade..... most likely a 6206.
35x62x7mm on the seals.


When you reinstall the engine, make sure that the exhaust manifold, and the exhaust down tube align...... and that the torque cushion aligns before you tighten the six clamping ring bolts.
If this is cantilever hung, do all of this before allowing the entire engine weight to hang on the transom shield.

.

[2850Bounty]

# 69 is your PDS. (Borg Warner spines w/ a pilot nose at the FWD end)



# 28 is the pilot bearing... of which does nothing more than center the pilot nose of the PDS (it does not spin)........ (it's a carry-over from the auto engines..... it could actually be a bronze bushing on all marine engines)


# 40 is your drive coupler (absorber)
These are the two areas (splines and nose) where I supect rust!


Borg Warner spines in the center.

[Wingman]

I must have mis read, the trans is still hanging out the F\C?

[2850Bounty]

He says: "That didn't work. So I took off the top end of the sterndrive."
He must mean the transmission! That would be the correct thing to do, IMO!

[rkcarguy]

Trying to make sense of this...so his PDS shaft must be stuck in the drive coupler?

[2850Bounty]

Originally Posted by rkcarguy

Trying to make sense of this... so his PDS shaft must be stuck in the drive coupler?

That or the pilot bearing..... or both.

[Phillabaum]

Thanks for all the info. I guess rust is the culpret. I can't turn the motor ( really didn't want to try to avoid damage) so rotating the flywheel and removing the bolts won't happen. (Good Idea though). I have tried using a dent puller with a curved flat bar on the end and can get the bellhousing to move 1/8" I then tapped on the end of the primary drive shaft and it re flushed the bell housing with the engine. I again used the dent puller and got the bellhousing to move only the 1/8". Hope to get past this soon. Any more good ideas. PLEASE!

Rusted in Alabama

[2850Bounty]

Originally Posted by Phillabaum

Thanks for all the info.......................... Any more good ideas. PLEASE!
Rusted in Alabama

Dear rusted in Alabama,
There is one last resort and I just walked a member of another forum through this two weeks ago! It worked for him!
And that is to remove the flywheel cover from the shaft, drive coupler, pilot bearing and engine as though they are one unit (of which they actually are now thanks to this rust!)

Reach into the AFT section of the flywheel cover (the bellows snout).
Punch the seal out of your way. Just punch it and ruin it to get it out of your way!
Remove the first large snap ring and get it out of your way also.

Now take a long small chisel and break the small snap ring that holds the bearing onto the shaft........ just break it in half or what ever you must do to get it out of there...... no need to worry about saving it or the bearing. They are cheap, and need to be replaced anyway.
I say break it because trying to reach this little compression type snap ring with the correct snap ring pliers is all but impossible. Don't waist your time!

Now get the pieces out of your way.

Now, as you put rearwards pressure on the flywheel cover, tap the shaft "forward" (with a brass or alumiminum or Dead Blow hammer) until the flwheel cover starts to move in the AFT direction.
It will start to move in the AFT direction because the shaft will now be sliding out from the bearing.
IOW's, the bearing will remain in the F/C, and you will be forcing the shaft out FWD as the bearing and F/C move rearward.

All is taking the same end result action with exception to the shaft, drive coupler, pilot bearing and engine pretending to be one unit!
.