Shift adjustment question for Cobra, not transom bracket shift cable

[gjs1]

On the shift rocker assembly that attaches to the engine, what is the ideal setting for the cable that attaches by bolt in the slot so you can adjust the distance that the cable travels. I have shifting issues, not from a sticky cable, so I tried adjusting the travel of the cable and it shifts better into forward gear, but now won't shift into reverse. Also, when I shift into reverse, the engine really sputters and won't stop sputtering.

[Monterey10]

The cables need to be in top shape for a Cobra to shift. The engine idle needs to stay low, even when the engine is hot. The ESA switches need to function for the Cobra to shift.

To adjust the cable, I disconnect the upper control cable from shift lever on the engine. (#23)http://www.dougrussell.com/partscata...52,653,654,655

With the engine running on the muffs, I Shift the lever arm into forward. Then, I shift the helm into forward. The helm cable in "forward" should match the shift levers position.(for forward) If the helm cable is to long or short, adjust it to match "forward" at the shift arm.

Shift lever pushed forward .


With the helm cable attached, try shifting the drive into reverse. It should be OK. If it is not engaging, you can get more Lever travel by sliding the control cable down on on the shift lever. This increases the throw of the shift lever.

Regarding the ESA switches, I wrote the following yesterday. It sounds like your ESA is coming on in reverse, and staying on.

The ESA switches. First a couple of ESA facts.

1) The switch with the metal tab and roller turns on the ESA. Tension in the shift cable moves the spring loaded cam, activating the ESA. Tension varies depending on how worn the cable and drive is.

2) The ESA makes the engine stumble right at the point you need to shift. The switch should engage for just a short moment, then shut off.

3) The 2nd switch, called an overstroke switch, engages one of two chrome adjustable metal tabs when the engine is fully shifted forward or reverse. The over stroke switch disables the ESA switch, which shuts off the ESA. (If it's in gear, you want the ESA off, a fail safe)

4) Both switches misbehave when they sit all year and get corroded. The cam that operates the roller ESA switch can get sticky too. The ESA stays on. Leaky Bayliner engine hatches are to blame.

5) The cables need to be working smoothly and adjusted correctly so that the cam operated ESA switch pops on and off just as the drive goes into gear. (Just a moment of stumble at the time of shifting) The over stroke switch should engage when in gear. A rusted switch may leave the ESA on all the time except when in gear. A bad overstroke will disable the ESA entirely.

6) On my most recent project, the drive was stiff. The lower shift cable stretched tight trying to shift the drive, ESA stayed on due to the cam always being on. Fixed the drive, shifts easily, Esa is back to mementary on off engagement. ** Mis adjustment of the cables will stretch the lower cable tight, activate the cam and esa, making your engine stumble all the time in reverse.**

I run my boat on the muffs and shift the boat in and out of gear, adjusting the ESA switches to get the right function.

The below picture shows the shift arm in forward. The upper helm cable is in "Forward", I've adjusted it's length (thumb wheel on left)to match the shift arm's position. Okay, hope this helps...